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statement:
1. The original author David Pagel, compiler Kristian Wang.
The original author and publisher own the copyright. The compiler allows this Chinese translation for citation and reprint of learning and communication purposes. Commercial websites and traditional publications If you need to quote or reprint all or part of this Chinese translation, please contact the compiler.
2. The theme of this article is Alpine climbing, which refers to the alpine-style technical alpine climbing, which is quite different from the Himalayan climbing style.
3. Due to space and understanding reasons, this compilation is not a complete translation of the original text.
4. Due to limitations in my level, there must be omissions. With the development of climbing technology, some original dogmas may also change. Please criticize and correct me. I will not be responsible for the responsibilities arising from the practice of the content described in this article.
5. If you have time, you should still look at the original text to help you grasp more elaborate things.
Alpine climbing
Motto: Speed ​​is Life
Graduation moment
Successfully completing an alpine climb is like obtaining a degree. First of all, you need to learn and practice a lot of different skills. Then you can combine them and test whether they can work in the real environment. Learning schedules include: rock climbing, ice climbing, field survival, meteorology, and even graduate-level psychology. Everything is sloppy, because the graduation exam on the mountain is the most rigorous, where there is no solid protection point, there is no comfortable weather wearing a T-shirt, and there is no buffer protection.
Qualification requirements: ice rock technology
Before you begin to venture into the mountains, you must first master the rock mechanics. Requests to be able to move quickly, erect equipment, and carry backpacks. To put it simply, if you have no backpacking and the traditional climbing technique is up to 5.10, then in the mountains, you can only consider the situation below 5.6. Maybe it's a little demeaning, but in reality the simple difficulty level doesn't take into account loose or wet rocks, ice shells on rocks, snow-capped rocks, and many other unforeseen difficulties.
Ice is the link between the high mountains and the world, and its solidity is constantly changing, from hard blue ice to sugar-like ice dregs. You must be familiar with grasping its various forms.
A good way to increase this experience and fill in the gaps is to go out and look for all kinds of ice conditions that you will always respect, and practice with top rope protection. For example, in the sun where the ice surface becomes loose, you can try to use a shovel head (in the case of soft ice, than the crane mouth leverage) to climb, experience both positive and negative effects, but pay attention to avoid those that may collapse immediately Ice. If you can find such a low-angle hill, you can try to rise by kicking ice without crampons; if the soft snow surface is not deep enough, you can knock out the steps. Practice climbing with only one hail. Almost all winter conditions can be used as training venues. If conditions are limited, you can also practice self-braking on the slopes of the ski, deadman, snow cone settings, crossing on frozen lakes and rivers, and practicing glacial walking. Anyone can learn these techniques.
speed
In mountain climbing, the number and quality of protection points are certainly not the same as those during normal climbing. The reason is not only that it is difficult to find suitable protection points, but also that it is not allowed in time. Wasting time setting a lot of protection may lead to different results: You could have sat in a tent and appreciate the afternoon storm, but now you can only nail it on the rock wall and let the thunder and lightning rush around you.
Alpine equipment should be efficient, with some rock plugs, mechanical plugs, and ice cones, and if necessary, risking an unprotected climb. If you can't rest assured that you are moving boldly without a lot of protection, you should give up climbing.
Pay attention to the way you observe the route. Sketch the way to climb from a quick perspective. If there are challenging difficulties on the route, see if you can find an easy route around it; if there are two shorter road segments, merge them into one rope segment; if you encounter a place to put protection, It can be used as a fixed point for instrument climbing. The "French-Free" technology (Figure 1) is a very good alpine climbing method that uses equipment to overcome difficulties.
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